For the last decade, fans of banh mi, the Vietnamese sub on a baguette roll, have been able to find versions offered at various local Vietnamese restaurants.
What the banh mi bunch has not found is complete satisfaction. The hardest part of banh mi to get right is the bread, which should be airy with a crust that crackles with every bite.
That changed when Pham’s Kitchen started baking its own banh mi rolls every morning. The Vietnamese restaurant at 2940 Union Road, Cheektowaga, with a branch at the Walden Galleria food court, gets banh mi right.
Ngoc Lan Nguyen got her business master's degree in Vietnam and worked in information technology before deciding to open a restaurant with her husband, Vincent Duong Pham. Tired of driving to Toronto for the banh mi she recognized, the bread became a focal point of their restaurant efforts.
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Order online or come in for a banh mi filled with varieties of meat or vegetarian fillings, cucumber, cilantro, pickled carrot and daikon radish. The dac biet special ($7.75) has pork pate, headcheese and Vietnamese bologna, all made in-house.
Meatballs, grilled pork, lemongrass beef and more fillings run about $9. A crispy fish banh mi is on the way.
Pham’s Kitchen has much of the standard Vietnamese canon, including pho beef noodle soup ($16), grilled marinated pork chop over rice with egg cake ($16) and bun, mix-it-yourself salads of rice noodles and meats, shrimp or tofu ($14.50-$17).
Also new to the area: bun cha ($17) Hanoi style, grilled pork patties served with dipping sauce, fresh herbs and rice noodles.
Check out the menu or order online at phamskitchen716.com. Hours: 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday. Phone: 716-901-7663.
OPENINGS & CLOSINGS
Imperial Pizza has opened a second location at 1661 Main St. in University Heights.
Imperial invades Heights: On Nov 13, Imperial Pizza opened its new University Heights shop at 1661 Main St. The second Imperial outlet offers the pizza, wings and subs that have made the South Buffalo pizza shop a destination since 1992.
Check out the menu at imperialpizzabuffalo.com, and order online here. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Phone: 716-508-2261.
Dave’s Hot Chicken lands: One of the fastest-expanding chains of Nashville-inspired chicken concepts opens its first Western New York location, as Dave’s Hot Chicken joins the fast-food row on Niagara Falls Boulevard. Check out the menu at daveshotchicken.com/menu.
Open Nov. 17, at 1660 Niagara Falls Blvd., the restaurant will then close for a day. Then open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.
Marotto’s goes silent: Mark Marotto, the only chef in Western New York who routinely serenaded customers with strolling harmonica solos, has gotten out of the game. The restaurant part at least, with 3365 Delaware Ave. expected to change courses under new ownership.
“There are a lot of Italian restaurants in the Buffalo area where you can get an enjoyable meal. There are even a few whose cooks have convinced me tripe can be made fit for human consumption. But there is only one I know of where the owner, after cooking your dinner, might come out of the kitchen to ask how everything was, then start playing a harmonica,” I wrote in my 2016 review. “And he takes requests.” Read 2016 review
Bye, Bagel Jay’s: The Buffalo bagel shop has sold to Vermont-based bagel chain Bruegger’s Bagels.
“It’s a positive thing,” said owner Jay Gershberg, who will now retire. “I’ve been working on this for a while.”
Gershberg said he had been approached by interested buyers several times over the years, but he felt that Bruegger’s was the right brand for Buffalo. Like Bagel Jay’s, its bagels are New York style, hearth baked and have a crusty edge, he said.
Bruegger’s will take over all three Bagel Jay’s locations (Plaza Drive in Dash’s Plaza in Amherst, on Main Street in Snyder and and on Delaware Avenue in Buffalo). The stores will remain closed until the transition is complete, but expect to be open by Thanksgiving.
– Samantha Christmann
Ask the critic
Q: Where can I get the best prices on bulk spices? When I go to supermarket spice sections the prices can be shocking and I give up on the recipe.
– Karl F., via email
A: Check out the spice aisles at international groceries like Buffalo Fresh in Riverside and on Broadway. Asian Food Market, 2055 Niagara Falls Blvd., Amherst, might seem Asian-only from the signage, but stocks a thorough Indian and Pakistani spice selection.
Have a look inside the nearest Indian or Bangladeshi, or Pakistani grocery, like Super Bazaar, 3218 Sheridan Drive, Amherst. Also consider the Goya and other Latino sections in groceries, where a pint of garlic powder can be had for $3.
Send restaurant tips, heartfelt recipes and questions to agalarneau@buffnews.com.
Send restaurant tips to agalarneau@buffnews.com and follow @BuffaloFood on Instagram and Twitter.
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[BN] Food & Drink: Banh mi bread baked in-house makes Pham's Kitchen shine - Buffalo News
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