THE CHEF: TIFFANY DERRY
Her Restaurants: Roots Chicken Shak, in Dallas and Austin, Texas; Roots Southern Table, outside Dallas
What She’s Known For: Serving the Southern food she grew up eating alongside new dishes she’s created. Showcasing the seasonality and nuance in Southern food.
SOME DISHES ARE best served at home—this spoon bread, for instance, the second Slow Food Fast recipe from chef Tiffany Derry. It contains more dairy and fat than a standard cornbread, creating a custardy interior more suited to spooning than slicing. Ms. Derry used to make a version at Roots Southern Table, her restaurant outside Dallas. “Now we only do cornbread,” she said. “It’s hard to get this to the table on time. I like to serve spoon bread straight out of the oven, when it’s big and puffy, like a soufflé.”
So, you’ve been warned: Like most spoon breads, this one deflates quickly once it’s out of the oven. Otherwise it’s a simple recipe, tested to the point of perfection through generations of Ms. Derry’s family. “My grandmother taught my mom how to make this, and my mom taught me,” the chef said. She emphasized that she has remained true to the character of the original—that lofty, soft texture in particular—give or take a tweak or two over the years. “I made it more savory by cutting down on the sugar and adding cheese,” she said. “Sometimes, I’ll add fresh jalapeño for heat.”
The recipe below calls for a muffin tin, to save on baking time. But you can use a cast-iron skillet, if you like; just add 15 minutes or so to the baking time. “The result is the same, but your cooking time will vary depending on the size of the pan,” Ms. Derry advised. “Whatever you use, be sure to fill the vessel up only two-thirds of the way so the batter has room to expand.”
A generous dollop of spoon bread makes a nice light meal alongside a green salad. For a family gathering, Ms. Derry might serve it as the starch for, say, oxtails and gravy. Either way, it’s a treat.
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