When Laugarvatn Fontana opened in 2011, Hilmarsson knew he had to incorporate the bread into his guests’ experience somehow. Originally, he merely prepared it as a snack for visitors to dive into in between sessions within the saunas and hot springs. However, noting guests’ interest, he began offering geothermal bakery tours, where visitors could watch as he and his staff uncovered the 24 hour-baked bread, rinsed the pans in the pristine lake, and revealed a subtly sweet, steamy bread—fully cooked in the bubbling sand.
Although it’s crafted with rye flour, hverabrauð is not like typical rye bread you may use in preparing sandwiches. “The texture of our rye bread is quite heavy,” Himarsson begins. “It reminds some people of gingerbread, and others say it’s more like a cake than bread.”
Due to its low-and-slow cooking time and lack of yeast, the crumb is much denser and closer. The addition of sugar, which caramelizes over the course of the 24 hour bake time, adds a prominently nutty and invitingly sweet flavor.
To serve, Hilmarsson offers guests fresh Icelandic butter as well as smoked trout whose briny flavor balances out the caramel notes of the hverabrauð. The bread is so flavorful, however, that eating it merely as is is also welcomed.
For Hilmarsson, whose family has lived around the Laugarvatn lake and its hot springs for generations, maintaining the tradition of hverabrauð is vital to preserving Icelandic culture and keeping his grandmother’s recipe alive.
“We didn’t always have ovens, and people had to innovate and come up with all kinds of wonderful things to survive back in the day,” Hilmarsson says. “We want to honor the great tradition of baking rye bread and show our guests how we are able to use geothermal energy for our baking.”
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How to Prepare Hverabrauð, Iceland's Traditional Hot Spring Bread - Thrillist
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