CLEVELAND, Ohio -- Meet John Dough…and Emilio Yeastevez, Bread Pitt, St. Joan of Starch and Rye Breadbury. They’re sourdough starters, thick porridges of fermented flour and water, teeming with living microorganisms. Each one has a unique pleasantly sour tang, and they all have the admirable ability to replace currently scarce commercial yeast in providing the rise to turn dough into, ta da, bread! As living entities that have to be cared for and fed, like children, pets and carnivorous plants, sourdough starters often acquire names. The monikers above say more than I ever could about the humor of some serious players in the field of sourdough.
Whether named or anonymous, you must have a starter of your own. The best way is to acquire a cup or two from someone you know. Ask around. There are sourdough savants everywhere and most are thrilled to share starters and stories with a rookie. It’s also available online or you can make your own (see resources below). Another necessity is a digital kitchen scale. I’m sorry to crimp your creativity, but when it comes to sourdough, every gram counts. Feed your starter well before you begin to bake (see more resources below for specifics), measure carefully and don’t be daunted. There will be successes and failures every step of the way, but the sourdough support community is wide and deep, no question is too mundane or arcane.
Use the recipes below to ease your way in. The five-step overnight recipe below may not give you a bread quite as beautifully crafted or grained as a 13-step 11+ days loaf (see recipe in resources), but the alchemy remains the same. A lump of sourdough -- made only of flour, water, salt, and your own nurtured leaven -- goes into the oven, a crisp golden fragrant loaf comes out.
My sourdough starter is named Miracle. It’s a bit of gratitude for every magical creation that emerges from the heat, and hopefully a harbinger of more existential miracles to come.
No-Knead No-Fuss Sourdough Bread
This almost hands-off recipe is a variation of Mark Bittman’s yeasted no-knead bread of 2006. The recipe that launched over 11,000 5-star ratings in The New York Times has been revised for today’s best practices in sourdough, and, like its predecessor, is an extraordinarily gratifying, and remarkably delicious, experience every time.
1½ cups/180 grams whole wheat flour (preferably King Arthur brand)
2 cups/250 grams unbleached all-purpose flour (preferably King Arthur brand)
1½ tbps./9 grams kosher salt
¾ cup/180 grams sourdough starter, “fed”
2 tbsp./20 grams sesame seeds
Step 1: In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour and salt.
Step 2: In a small mixing bowl, stir together 235 grams (about 1 cup) lukewarm tap water with the sourdough starter, then pour the mixture into the bowl with the flour mixture. Mix until just combined. It will look like a shaggy ball. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and a tea towel and leave it to rise, anywhere from 10 to 24 hours is fine.
Step 3: The next day, dust a clean kitchen surface with flour. The dough should have risen considerably and will be springy to the touch. Scoop the dough directly onto the surface, then dust with more flour. With lightly floured hands, gently fold the edges of the dough from the outside in, to form a round loaf. Dust a clean towel with more flour, sprinkle sesame seeds in a small area about the size of your loaf and place the dough on top of the seeds, seam side down. Lightly dust with additional flour, cover lightly and allow to rest about 45 minutes.
Step 4: Meanwhile, heat oven to 450 degrees. Place a covered enamel Dutch oven or heavy (preferably 8-inch diameter) pot with a heat-proof lid into the oven and allow it to heat for 45 minutes or so. Remove the pot from the oven, take off its top, and carefully invert the risen dough into it, so that the seam side is now facing up. Put the top back on the pot and return it to the oven.
Step 5: Bake for about 25 to 30 minutes, then remove lid and allow it to continue to cook until it is deep golden brown and crusty all over, an additional 20 minutes or so. Remove pot carefully and turn out loaf on a rack to cool for at least 30 minutes before serving. (Adapted recipe courtesy of Hedy Milgrom)
Sourdough Panzanella Salad
Once you have your technique down, the fun begins. And the timing couldn’t be better, we’re on the cusp of everyone’s favorite season in Cleveland, the beginning of cherry tomato harvest. Now is the perfect time for a panzanella salad, with your own crisp croutons soaking up all the sweet fresh flavor of the sun-warmed fruit. Enjoy.
2 tbsp. olive oil
4 cups sourdough bread cubes, 1-inch dice
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 lb. very ripe cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1 hothouse cucumber, unpeeled, seeded, and sliced 1/2-inch thick
1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
10 large basil leaves, coarsely chopped
3 tbsp. capers, well-drained and dried on paper towel
For the vinaigrette:
2 cloves very finely minced garlic
½ tsp. Dijon mustard
2 tbsp. Champagne or white wine vinegar
4 tbsp. olive oil
Step 1: Heat oil in a large sauté pan. Add bread and 1 tsp. salt. Cook over medium low heat, tossing frequently, for 10 minutes, or until crisp and lightly browned. Add more oil as necessary.
Step 2: Whisk all vinaigrette ingredients together except olive oil. Slowly add oil, whisk to combine. Add salt and freshly-ground pepper to taste.
Step 3: Mix tomatoes, cucumber, red onion, basil and capers in a large bowl. Add bread cubes and toss with vinaigrette. Let sit for ½ to 3 hours to allow flavors to meld. Toss once more and serve.
Sourdough pretzels galore...there's no limit to shapes and toppings. (Photo Beth Segal, special to Cleveland.com)
Sourdough Pretzels
Just the idea that you can make these soft warm chestnut brown pretzel twists at home is reason enough to try them. Don’t limit yourself to the traditional shapes— or toppings. Try sticks and hoops and little pretzel bites, sprinkled with Everything Bagel topping, poppy seeds, candy sprinkles, onion flakes, or whatever else is lurking in your pantry.
Pretzel Dough
1 cup/245 grams milk, warmed
2 tbsp./8 grams butter, room temperature
1 tbsp./18 grams granulated sugar
1½ cups/360 grams sourdough starter
4 cups/500 grams all-purpose flour
Boiling Water
12 cups/839 grams water
1 tbsp./18 grams baking soda
Toppings
1 large egg, beaten for egg wash
Everything Bagel topping, poppy seed, coarse sea salt, cinnamon sugar, etc.
Step 1: Warm the milk in a microwave, about 30 seconds on high.
Step 2: In the bowl of a stand mixer with a dough hook attachment, combine the warm milk with the butter, sugar, and sourdough starter.
Step 3: Add the flour and turn the mixer on 1-2 (never higher than 2 or medium-low) and let the mixer knead the dough for about 5 minutes.
Step 4: Turn off the mixer and scrape the dough into a medium bowl that has been lightly coated with oil. Cover with plastic and set aside for about 2 hours while the dough rises.
Step 5: After 2 hours, turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Gently knead the dough for 2-3 minutes.
Step 6: Separate dough into 12 pieces. Roll the pieces into 30-inch ropes (about 1 inch thickness).
Step 7: Shape each rope into a pretzel and place them on parchment-lined baking sheets. Put them in the freezer for 20-30 minutes before the water bath.
Step 8: Preheat the oven to 450°F while the pretzels are in the freezer.
Step 9: In a large stockpot, add water and baking soda. Place heat on high. Once water is boiling, place 4 of the pretzels into the water. Remove with a slotted spoon after they float to the top and place the pretzels back onto the lined baking sheets.
Step 10: Brush dough lightly with egg wash and sprinkle your choice of topping on top of each pretzel.
Step 11: Bake for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Let pretzels cool before serving. (Courtesy of I Am Baker)
Sourdough Sandwich Bread with Fruit and Walnuts
This recipe uses multiple starches and two different leavening agents, but it comes together quickly and the pay-off is a colorful loaf loaded with raisins, apples and walnuts. A slice or two makes for a cheerful eye-opener for morning toast or a glamorous grilled-cheese sandwich later in the afternoon, stuffed with cheddar, sliced apples and a handful of peppery arugula.
2/3 cup/160g sourdough starter, “fed”
1/3 to 3/4 cup/152 grams lukewarm water*
1 tbsp./14 grams olive oil or vegetable oil
1 tbsp./21 grams sugar
1½ tsp./9 grams salt
2 1/4 cups/269 grams unbleached all-purpose flour (preferably King Arthur)
1/4 cup/43 grams potato flour or 1/2 cup/43g dried potato flakes
1/3 cup/35 grams rolled oats, traditional or quick
2 tsp./16 grams instant yeast
1 cup/113 grams chopped Granny Smith apple (about 1 small apple), peeled or not
1 cup/149 grams raisins, assorted and/or dried cranberries
¾ cup/75 grams toasted walnuts
*In summer, or during hot/humid weather, reduce the water by 1 tablespoon
Step 1: Combine all of the ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer, or the pan of your bread machine, and mix and knead to form a smooth yet sticky dough. If you're kneading by hand, you'll want to keep your hands well greased.
Step 2: Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover it, and allow to rise for about 90 minutes. The dough will become puffy, though it may not double in bulk.
Step 3: Lightly grease an 8 1/2" x 4 1/2" loaf pan.
Step 4: Gently deflate the risen dough, and shape into a log. Place in the pan, cover it lightly, and allow it to rise until it crests at least 1" over the rim of the pan, 60 to 90 minutes.
Step 5: Towards the end of the rising time, preheat the oven to 350°F.
Step 6: Bake the bread for 40 to 45 minutes, tenting it with foil after 15 to 20 minutes; it will continue to brown slowly. When it's done, the bread will be golden brown, and register 190°F on an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center.
Step 7: Remove the bread from the oven, and after a couple of minutes turn it out of the pan onto a rack to cool. (Adapted from King Arthur Flour)
Blueberry Sourdough Pancakes
It’s the height of local blueberry season right now, so, as if you needed an excuse, it’s time for pancakes thick with juicy fruit. Use a cast iron pan or griddle if you’ve got one. If not, what are you waiting for? It makes an enormous difference in the quality of your pancakes, and these deserve the very best.
2 large eggs
1 cup/245 grams whole milk
¼ cup/61 grams Greek yogurt (optional)
1½ cup/250 grams sourdough starter
1 tsp./4 grams vanilla
1½ cups/180 grams all-purpose or mix of all-purpose and whole wheat flour
1 tsp./6 grams baking soda
1 tsp./5 grams baking powder
1 tsp./6 grams sea salt
¼ cup/6 grams granulated sugar
¼ cup/64 grams melted butter
1½ cups/150 grams fresh blueberries (or more)
Step 1: Beat eggs in a medium bowl. Mix in milk, yogurt (optional), sourdough starter, and vanilla.
Step 2: Sift together flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, and sugar. Add dry mix to the egg mixture, mixing well. Stir in melted butter. Wait about 30 minutes to let your sourdough starter develop. Add a little more milk if necessary, to thin batter, then add blueberries and stir.
Step 3: Lightly oil a very hot pan or griddle. Drop the batter onto the griddle and cook until bubbles start to appear on top, then flip to cook the other side. Continue with remaining batter, serve hot with maple syrup and butter, or better yet, just the way they are. (Adapted from The Perfect Loaf)
Sourdough Discard Crackers with Rosemary, Sesame Seeds and Olive Oil
Part of the process of sourdough includes the disposing of excess starter when you feed it. There could be a cookbook written compiling those recipes alone. But until then, this quick and easy recipe is pretty close to all you need. Change up the flavorings as you like, pepper flakes, garlic flecks, sprinkle with a tablespoon of grated parmesan, or go sweet with a cinnamon/sugar/finely chopped pecans topping.
1 1/3 cup/340 grams sourdough discard
¼ cup/60 grams exra virgin olive oil
1 tsp./6 grams salt
2 tbsp./4 grams dried rosemary, divided
1 tbsp./9 grams white or white and black sesame seeds
Preheat oven to 325°
Step 1: In a large bowl combine the discard, olive oil, salt and half the rosemary. Whisk well to combine. The batter should be smooth without any visible oiliness.
Step 2: Line a half sheet pan (18x13) with parchment paper. Spread the batter out to the edges of the pan in a smooth even layer.
Step 3: Sprinkle the top of the batter with the remaining rosemary, sesame seeds and a bit of coarse salt if desired.
Step 4: Place the sheet pan in the middle of the preheated oven and bake for 30 minutes.
Step 5: After 30 minutes, remove the pan and use a pizza cutter to score the batter into cracker sized squares. Or you can skip this step and break the crackers into bite-size pieces when fully baked.
Step 6: Return the pan to the oven and continue baking for 30 more minutes.
Step 7: Remove the baked crackers from the oven and allow them to cool completely before breaking them along the scored lines. Store in an airtight container. (Adapted from Butter For All)
Resources
A small selection of the many excellent resources available online
theperfectloaf.com: A comprehensive, informative, well-laid-out resource with a mini-catalog of best-practices equipment.
theclevercarrot.com: An excellent extensive blog with informative photographs and intriguing recipes taken from their Artisan Sourdough Made Simple cookbook
kingarthurflour.com: They don’t call it “the ultimate resource for bakers” for nothing. The science and practice of almost every aspect of sourdough, including mail-order fresh sourdough starter. All this, plus free Zoom backgrounds for bakers and wannabes.
carlsfriends.net: If you’re willing to send in a SASE and wait a bit, you’ll get some free dried sourdough starter from Carl Griffith’s 1847 Oregon Trail Sourdough Starter project, along with instructions for hydrating this antique, but vibrant, starter.
tartinebakery.com/stories/country-bread Looking for the one recipe that explains it all to you? This is it. The legendary Tartine Bakery’s (L.A., San Francisco and Seoul) recipe for their country loaf is the gold standard of sourdough. Master this and you’ve got it made!
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