STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — For some of us, March 1 is a significant day. In West Brighton, it marked the last Forest Avenue St. Patrick’s parade. And the date also might be remembered as the first coronavirus death was recorded in New York City. But we’re thinking of the food aspect of the month and, pandemic or not, Irish soda bread comes back to the borough for the season. With what does Renato’s Bakery’s cake-y version pair well? And, with Mark’s Bake Shoppe’s bread-like loaf, how can we kick the traditional, Irish food up a notch?
As a cheese lover, fellow turophiles can turn to our favorite fromage sources on the Isle of Staaten as, butter aside, it is an affable partner to Irish soda bread.
Goat cheeses from Rabbit’s Run Farm at the St. George Greenmarket on Saturdays between 8 a.m. and 1 p.m. behind the St. George Theatre. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)Staff-Shot
1. Go for the locally made fromage.
The St. George Greenmarket’s anchor producer is Rabbit Run Farm, which features a stunning collection of hand-crafted cheeses each Saturday from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., rain or shine, behind the St. George Theatre at Hyatt Street and St. Mark’s Place. You can meet the cheesemaker himself, Dan Torrison, who continually rolls out new product.
Dan recently introduced a cow milk “Meeting House” which has a similar profile to havarti and melts nicely on sliced, savory soda bread. Also try Dan’s camembert where the interior of the cheese between the rind known as the “paste” becomes molten at room temp — seriously yummy.
Cheese in the display case at Hook and Rail, Travis (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)Staff-Shot
2.) Am I bleu?
Blue cheese is a wonderful option, especially roasted on day/days old soda bread slices. Cook the slices on a bake sheet in the oven at 350 degrees for about 15 minutes topped with Stilton, gorgonzola or a traditional American bleu like Maytag until the cheese becomes softened and a touch brown. Spread it with a knife before eating. Find small-batch, local and good stinky blue selections at Hook & Rail in Travis where there’s always a gem in the inventory.
Humboldt Fog cheese becomes molten on the outside and stays firm on the inside. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)
3.) Get the goat.
Goat cheese is considered easy on the digestive system and has a nice tang to it. Of course the plain stuff is fine or even topped with a little fresh thyme.
Also consider investing in some Humboldt Fog from Pastosa in West Brighton. A real treat, this has an almost lemony finish and can be a real conversation piece on its look: there is a line of vegetable ash marking its creamy core. As a wedge warms to room temperature, it melts on the outside while the insides stay solid and thick. The brand’s cheesemaker is Cypress Grove which also has a line of goat cheese pucks seasoned with lavender and fennel pollen, another home run with Irish soda bread both texturally and tang-wise. That can be purchased through Fresh Direct. ShopRite in New Dorp also features interesting herbaceous combos.
A square of taleggio at Italo's A&S Pork Store, Port Richmond (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri) Staff-Shot
4.) Soft rind goodness.
Uber-creamy and funky scented Taleggio is a stunning partner to soda bread. It’s like the Italian version of brie — another good pick but not as intense and with a happy kind of dark side to it on the palate. Again, this must be eaten at room temperature, out of the fridge for at least two hours before smoothing onto its destination. Check out the cheese departments at La Bella Marketplace and Trader Joe’s for such goodness.
Corned beef platters are served with an Irish soda bread roll option at Duffy’s in West Brighton. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri) Staff-Shot
5.) Citrus on cream.
If you enjoy marmalade and a sweet counterpoint to soda bread try combining equal parts with cream cheese. It’s a less expensive alternative to artisanal queso for a spread and can be just as delicious.
MISSING THE FOREST AVENUE PARADE?
I’m going to miss the crowds this year at the parade down the block from our house. It’s always nice to have friends randomly stop by that day and we’ve always prepared something like potato and leek soup and, yes, Irish soda bread. It’s usually the first time we see neighbors after a solid winter of hibernation. Instead we’ll share nice recipe from a former Advance Cookbook Grand Champ Laura Cammarata of Port Richmond, plus a great, big virtual hug.
Keep in touch.
Pamela Silvestri is Advance Food Editor. She can be reached at silvestri@siadvance.com.
Laura Cammarata's Irish soda bread (Staten island Advance/ Jan Somma-Hammel)Staten Island Advance
ITALIAN IRISH SODA BREAD
(Makes 1 loaf)
INGREDIENTS:
1/2 cup sugar
4 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup raisins
1 tablespoon caraway seeds
2 large eggs, beaten
1 1/4 cups buttermilk
1 cup sour cream
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 10-inch cheesecake pan.In a mixing bowl, combine flour (save 1 tablespoon), sugar, baking powder and soda, salt raisins and caraway seeds.In a small bowl, blend eggs, buttermilk and sour cream.Stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture, just until moist Knead dough gently to incorporate and place in pan. Pat down, cut a cross on top and dust with remaining flour.Bake for 65-76 minutes. Cool 10 minutes and remove from pan.
— Laura Cammarata, Port Richmond
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