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Coronavirus and Columbus bread: How the pandemic is changing Syracuse holiday tradition - syracuse.com

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Syracuse, N.Y. — The smell of freshly baked loaves. The camaraderie of the group outside the building. The cheers, mostly ironic, when it starts to snow or rain.

The coronavirus is changing a lot of traditions this holiday season, and in Syracuse that includes the bread line at Columbus Baking on the North Side.

This Thanksgiving, owner Jim Retzos says, there will be no lines.

But there will be bread.

Columbus bakers are approaching this Thanksgiving a little differently. They’re getting to the ovens extra early, and will make as much bread as they can before the shop opens on Wednesday, the day before Thanksgiving.

After opening, on both Wednesday and Thursday, there will no closing of the doors while the staff replenishes the supply. In a typical year, that often forces the line to wait (and grow), for a half hour to an hour or more.

“We’ll make as much as we can before we open,” Retzos said. “Then we let people in to buy their bread and leave. No lines. No waiting. And when the bread is gone, it’s gone.”

If there is some need for people to wait, they should do it in their cars, he said, or somewhere else.

Retzos is as sorry as anyone to the change the tradition, a cherished part of Thanksgiving and Christmas for generations of Central New Yorkers. Christmas is the busier holiday, but Thanksgiving is a strong second.

“But the important thing is to keep everyone safe,” Retzos said. “We want all of our customers, and our staff, to be safe.”

Columbus, at 502 Pearl St., opened in 1895. The tradition of the festive lines at Thanksgiving and Christmas dates back decades — Retzos remembers them from when he was a boy almost 50 years ago.

Columbus makes only bread, and uses a simple dough of water, flour, salt and yeast. It will offer its signature round, flat, point and sandwich loaves. Sandwiches loaves are the most popular, and Retzos says they’re making plenty.

“I don’t know how many,” he said. “We’ll make them until we don’t have any more space for them.”

On Wednesday, Columbus is open 8 a.m,. to 6 p.m. (or until they run out), and on Thanksgiving day from 6 a.m. until 2 p.m. (or while supplies last.)

“It will be different this year,” Retzos said. “But we’re trying to make it as smooth and as safe as possible.”

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Don Cazentre writes for NYup.comsyracuse.com and The Post-Standard. Reach him at dcazentre@nyup.com, or follow him at NYup.com, on Twitter or Facebook.

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Coronavirus and Columbus bread: How the pandemic is changing Syracuse holiday tradition - syracuse.com
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